Biodynamic production – a game of feeling and time

Three periods

“My wine story comprises three periods. Each of them was crucial," says Zmago Petrič, owner of the Guerila winery while pouring Rebula into a glass.

A watchful eye immediately notices a slightly deeper colour and slight but nice cloudiness. The bouquet that does not hide that this is Rebula is particularly fascinating, and provides a rare diversity and fragrant character. No, there are not many good and fragrant Rebulas. The fact that it is produced by biodynamic principles is undoubtedly among key factors for its quality and independent character. But not the only one.

A tasting with Zmago takes places in a tasting room with a magnificent view. The fields and small densely populated settlements of the Vipava Valley take turns below, green forests and vineyards share the slopes, and Nanos is rising in the background. The modern multi-storey Guerila wine cellar is located on one of the highest points of Planina village. Architects made sure that it blends in beautifully with the surroundings. A view of the Vipava Valley and wines with character – no wonder the new wine cellar has become a mandatory visit for wine lovers and companies that would like to present their new product in a special place.

Wine must not have any mistakes even if you produce wine sustainably

“Biodynamic and sustainable wine production is demanding, and requires different approaches to work, constant monitoring, and particularly patience. I support precise flavours, and wine must not have any faults even if you produce wine sustainably."

He speaks slowly and prudently, his words carry a lot of weight, a philosophical rudiment of a person who observes things and life around him, and contemplates. He is not judgemental, he accepts things as they are. Although he is a businessman, it seems that his decisions in the vineyard and the cellar are more a result of intuition and faith in good work than of a carefully planned scenario supported by a bunch of laboratory analyses.The flavour of such wines is primal and may not be very intense. “Despite the biodynamic approach, I wanted to maintain fresh lines,” Zmago says as he remembers his beginnings. “Orange wines are okay, but Zelén and Pinela must be fresh and smell of the variety. I didn’t want the wines that my father and I had, which were heavy and unpleasant.

“Today, I know, “says Zmago, “that raw material is crucial and must be pure and unspoilt. The raw material improves with time, nature is thanking you. Things come together in a logical natural way.”

One of Guerila’s greatest virtues reflected in the superb taste of wines and new, different characteristics is that they know when to let nature take its course and when to intervene. Traditional wine lovers also love their wines. To achieve this, experience, plenty of knowledge of the craft, and sincerity with oneself, buyers, and nature are crucial. “Regardless of the fact that we produce wine in a biodynamic way, we measure pH and sulphur. We must not underestimate science,” says Zmago.

A tasting of wines at Guerila is always an experience, be it deep in the cellar or outside with a view. If you are accompanied by Zmago, the experience will be calm and occasionally slightly philosophical, and if you are accompanied by Martin Gruzovin, who is in charge of domestic and foreign markets at Guerila, the tasting will be slightly more “dynamic”. He is titled Slovenia’s best sommelier (since 2018), a keen fisherman, a skier, a gourmet, if party is close, he is right there. He speaks about wines, particularly sustainable, with passion. With said Rebula, Pinela, Zelén, Istrian Malvasia and excellent character type from local retro varieties, this might not be so difficult. Will Guerila’s passion for nature captivate you, too? If you think about it, Planina is not that far away.

Zmago

He speaks slowly and prudently, his words carry a lot of weight, a philosophical rudiment of a person who observes things and life around him, and contemplates. He only rarely accepts things as they are. Although he is a businessman, it seems that his decisions in the vineyard and the cellar are more a result of intuition and faith in good work than of a carefully planned scenario supported by a bunch of laboratory analyses.