Gregor

He was born into a family that owned a traditional inn. “Cooking is no mission. I grew up with it and it slowly took over. A classic story. Nothing new or shocking,” says Vračko. After catering school in neighbouring Austria, he immediately took off into the world at the beginning of the 1990s where he remained until 2006. Among others, he worked for Thomas Keller, but is very tight-lipped about his experience and his superiors. “That wasn’t training, it was hard work. They taught me hard work and discipline,” is all he has to say about the long period during which he meticulously perfected different techniques of food preparation and developed the talent on which he continues to build every day.

Vračko also refuses to speak too much about himself and his dishes. He only speaks about this with his brother David Vračko who is also a top chef. Vračko avoids media attention and social networks; he rarely attends professional meetings and shows. He has problems with critics of his work. “I accept positive criticism, but I will not go down on my knees to get praise. What are the parameters by which someone may assess someone else’s work? Anyone can open a can of spaghetti and heat it up.” Vračko is direct, with no filter. And many dislike him for it. He rebels against the system that glorifies those who make stars of themselves. “I won’t be quiet, since I don’t owe anyone anything. Everyone goes where they feel good, where they are received cordially, where a guest can be guest. Where they can speak their mind. The best PR is hard and honest work. Naturally, this is a lengthy procedure but it pays off sooner or later; much more than lobbying. I receive awards every day: in the form of guests from all corners of the world.”

Vračko’s life philosophy is best summarised by the statement of the Slovenian doctor and humanitarian Ninna Kozorog. “Because it’s deep. It has weight and because we live that way. Whoever reads it will be affected by it,” Vračko is certain. He emphasises the importance of being honest towards oneself and others, and the responsibility for one’s business: “If you are a hospitality worker, you have to stay at home, welcome your guest and follow them. Serve them and show them to the toilets. And, yes, also carry their suitcases to their rooms.” Upon the first visit to Hiša Denk, a restaurant and mini hotel, the guests are frequently surprised by Vračko’s hyperactivity because he is never still, and works as a chef, waiter, sommelier, porter, receptionist, concierge. But he only waves his hand. “Of course, I do everything. It’s called hospitality and to live for hospitality.”

Vračko’s inspiration are farmers. He visits them every day and prepares the daily menu on the basis of what they have available. “In this small area called Slovenia, we can find everything we can think of: chamois, stag, doe, fish, trout, zander, Mangalitsa pigs, etc. We have everything. We literally live in a fairy-tale country,” he is certain, which is also reflected in his dishes that are not limited only to the ingredients from the surrounding area. “If fresh scampi from Kvarner is available; I don’t see why I would pass it up? The whole world is at hand: for trends, approaches to cooking, raw ingredients. One must be open to everything. I don’t like limitations.” Which is why he doesn’t have typical or characteristic dishes. If he is short of a certain ingredient, he replaces it with something else, irrespective of the daily menu. “Sometimes I add, other times I take something away. There’s no perfect plate. You can work at it your whole life and get only half way there. But you’ll never really get there. There’s no such thing.”

Vračko doesn’t limit himself even when it comes to matching wine with food according to sommelier principles, although his wine cellar is well-stocked. “I don’t like profiling of what is supposed to go with a certain dish. For example, you don’t like white wine, but the waiter suggests that it goes well with brook trout. Do you give in? No. No. For all I care, you can have a coffee or a sweet beverage. I know, chefs and sommeliers would crucify me,” he smiles mischievously, although he has respect for wine. After all, he lives in the Podravje wine-producing region of excellent and multi-award-winning wines.

“People too frequently complain that nothing is worth the effort any more. But these wine producers and farmers prove the opposite. They are true enthusiasts,” says Vračko, being one of them himself. He tore down the old inn and opened a new, modern and light one in 2015 where he combined wood and glass. A true architectural beauty, which brought a breath of fresh air and new guests to his small Zgornja Kungota. He offers his guests aesthetic pleasures and comfort at several levels. He has taken risks and still does: with no fancy talk and long sentences, with a great deal of stubbornness and perseverance. He has managed to put Hiša Denk on the global map of top culinary destinations, although he sometimes leaves his guests speechless due to his uncensored words. But above all, due to his everyday focus on exceptional dishes created on the basis of excellent knowledge of various preparation techniques and combining of flavours. “One must keep moving on,” he insists,” because if you don’t keep up with the times, you go in time.”